INKED BY APO WHANG-OD

     "When we put the thorn in our chest, we know, we understand. But still we do it. For the best is only bought at the cost of great pain." (The Thorn Birds ang peg?)

     

     When Kuya Eddie (my guide) and I arrived at the 'kubo' where Apo Whang-od holds her tattoo sessions, she was already there tattooing somebody. It was a joy to see her. She may be deeply wrinkled, but I could see the sweetness in her eyes and in her smiles.

   Whang-od Oggay is the last 'mambabatok' of her generation and the oldest living tattoo artist in the Philippines, as she turned 100 years old last February 17. 'Mambabatok' is the traditional name of tattoo artist in Kalinga. She hails from Buscalan, Tinglayan, Kalinga Apayao and a member of the Butbut tribe.

       Apo Whang-od's artistry is not only known in the Philippines, but globally. She has been featured in the National Geographics and her portraits displayed in museums in other countries. Here in the Philippines, she was awarded as National Living Treasure, a recognition equivalent to a National Artist.

     Since she is single and has no children, she has trained her two nieces, Grace and Elyang, to continue this Kalinga art.

Every day, a lot of people, both foreign and local, go to Buscalan to be inked by Apo Whang-od. Even at her age, I could still see the passion in doing her art.

      When it was my turn to be inked, I tried to summon up all my courage. But no one really knows the pain once Apo Whang-od pokes the pomelo thorn into one's skin.

The "Crab". Symbol of a traveler.

      Kuya Eddie and some villagers had told me that Apo Whang-od's process is more painful than that of Grace and Elyang's. I could get my tattoo from the latter and then have Whang-od's signature tattoo, consisting of three dots.

      Considering that she is already a centenarian, she has now poor eye-sight and her tappings are inconsistent. That makes it soooo painful. The tattoo lines are not that fine anymore. But every blow she makes and every pierce of the pomelo thorn into your skin is art.

Tattoo designs

   Still, my strong-head said I should go for Apo Whang-od, no matter what. I endured the pain that is seemingly never-ending. I did not cry because they say Apo wouldn't like that. She might not finish the work if she sees that you can't endure the pain.

     I started this trip in a two-hour ride from Digos City to Davao airport. Another almost two-hour plane ride on a night flight from Davao City to Manila. Upon arrival, I immediately hired a taxi going to Victory Liner terminal in Pasay to catch the 11:00PM bus to Baguio City. I arrived at Baguio City at around 4:30AM and got the 7:00AM trip (first trip) to Bontoc, Mt. Province at Dangwa terminal. 

The culprit pomelo thorn.

     It's another almost 6-long hours trip as I arrived in Bontoc at almost 1:00PM. I wasn't able to catch the last trip to Tinglayan, Kalinga Apaya, but gladly, Kuya Eddie, texted me that there is still a 2:30PM mini-bus going straight to the turning point in Buscalan, Tinglayan. So from Bontoc, it's another 2-hour ride to the turning point in Buscalan in a rainy afternoon and on a long, narrow, steep, winding road. Kuya Eddie met me at the turning point and we started the one-hour trek up to Buscalan proper. We got at Buscalan proper at around 6:00PM and I registered at their Tourism station at the souvenir shop. I stayed at Kuya Eddie's house for an overnight fee of P250.00. (Kuya Eddie's contact number is 09128097578. One has to have a guide going to Buscalan.)

The 'kubo' where Apo Whang Od does the tattooing.

     So, it was an 18-hour trip to fulfill this long-time aspiration.  

     I did not cry while being inked, but when it was done I was teary-eyed because of the pride and indescribable joy I felt for having been inked by a National Living Treasure. I hugged Apo Whang-od and thanked her. I gave her chocolates since I've read that it's her favorite. The long journey was all worth it.

With the sweet Apo Whang-od.

      
        Of course, when I got down from Buscalan, where else do I start healing the pain but in my most favorite destination, Sagada (for the 3rd time).