Wednesday, September 6, 2017

            INKED BY APO WHANG-OD

     "When we put the thorn in our chest, we know, we understand. But still we do it. For the best is only bought at the cost of great pain." (The Thorn Birds ang peg?)



     
     When Kuya Eddie (my guide) and I arrived at the 'kubo' where Apo Whang-od holds her tattoo sessions, she was already there tattooing somebody. It was a joy to see her. She may be deeply wrinkled, but I could see the sweetness in her eyes and in her smiles.

   Whang-od Oggay is the last 'mambabatok' of her generation and the oldest living tattoo artist in the Philippines, as she turned 100 years old last February 17. 'Mambabatok' is the traditional name of tattoo artist in Kalinga. She hails from Buscalan, Tinglayan, Kalinga Apayao and a member of the Butbut tribe.

       Apo Whang-od's artistry is not only known in the Philippines, but globally. She has been featured in the National Geographics and her portraits displayed in museums in other countries. Here in the Philippines, she was awarded as National Living Treasure, a recognition equivalent to a National Artist.


     Since she is single and has no children, she has trained her two nieces, Grace and Elyang, to continue this Kalinga art.
Every day, a lot of people, both foreign and local, go to Buscalan to be inked by Apo Whang-od. Even at her age, I could still see the passion in doing her art.

      When it was my turn to be inked, I tried to summon up all my courage. But no one really knows the pain once Apo Whang-od pokes the pomelo thorn into one's skin.

The "Crab". Symbol of a traveler.
      Kuya Eddie and some villagers had told me that Apo Whang-od's process is more painful than that of Grace and Elyang's. I could get my tattoo from the latter and then have Whang-od's signature tattoo, consisting of three dots.

      Considering that she is already a centenarian, she has now poor eye-sight and her tappings are inconsistent. That makes it soooo painful. The tattoo lines are not that fine anymore. But every blow she makes and every pierce of the pomelo thorn into your skin is art.

Tattoo designs

   Still, my strong-head said I should go for Apo Whang-od, no matter what. I endured the pain that is seemingly never-ending. I did not cry because they say Apo wouldn't like that. She might not finish the work if she sees that you can't endure the pain.

     I started this trip in a two-hour ride from Digos City to Davao airport. Another almost two-hour plane ride on a night flight from Davao City to Manila. Upon arrival, I immediately hired a taxi going to Victory Liner terminal in Pasay to catch the 11:00PM bus to Baguio City. I arrived at Baguio City at around 4:30AM and got the 7:00AM trip (first trip) to Bontoc, Mt. Province at Dangwa terminal. 

The culprit pomelo thorn.
     It's another almost 6-long hours trip as I arrived in Bontoc at almost 1:00PM. I wasn't able to catch the last trip to Tinglayan, Kalinga Apaya, but gladly, Kuya Eddie, texted me that there is still a 2:30PM mini-bus going straight to the turning point in Buscalan, Tinglayan. So from Bontoc, it's another 2-hour ride to the turning point in Buscalan in a rainy afternoon and on a long, narrow, steep, winding road. Kuya Eddie met me at the turning point and we started the one-hour trek up to Buscalan proper. We got at Buscalan proper at around 6:00PM and I registered at their Tourism station at the souvenir shop. I stayed at Kuya Eddie's house for an overnight fee of P250.00. (Kuya Eddie's contact number is 09128097578. One has to have a guide going to Buscalan.)
The 'kubo' where Apo Whang Od does the tattooing.

     So, it was an 18-hour trip to fulfill this long-time aspiration.  

     I did not cry while being inked, but when it was done I was teary-eyed because of the pride and indescribable joy I felt for having been inked by a National Living Treasure. I hugged Apo Whang-od and thanked her. I gave her chocolates since I've read that it's her favorite. The long journey was all worth it.

With the sweet Apo Whang-od.
      
        Of course, when I got down from Buscalan, where else do I start healing the pain but in my most favorite destination, Sagada (for the 3rd time). 



Sunday, September 11, 2016

Loving Lake Holon

Lake Holon from the view deck.
     Officially off from my bucketlist is the spellbinding Lake Holon. Lake Holon, also known as Lake Maughan, is the crater lake created after the eruption in 1641 of Mt. Parker, locally known as Mt. Melibengoy.  It is located in the Municipality of T'boli, Province of South Cotabato. Mt. Parker is one of the sacred places of the T'boli tribe and it is approximately 5,984 feet above sea level. Lake Holon stands at approximately 4,700 feet above sea level.





     At 2:00AM on August 13, 2016 we left Digos City, Davao del Sur on a van via General Santos City and started our adventure to Lake Holon. We arrived at Surallah, South Cotabato at 4:30AM and rested for a while. Then we transferred on an Elf truck and proceeded to a two-hour travel to T'boli Municipal Hall to register and had our breakfast on a nearby carenderia. We started travelling at around 8:00AM to Sitio Kule, the jump off area.

   The two-hour truck ride to Sitio Kule was an adventure in itself. We were jampacked at the back of the truck with our stuff, and it was a hot day. The road was rough, bumpy, dusty, uphill-downhill, energy-consuming and body-aching. We even jokingly yearned to alight and start the trek to end our agony. So when we alight from the truck, I felt my internal organs were in total disarray. But everyone enjoyed the experience.
  

      

    
      After the orientation and a T'boli prayer for our safe trip, we started the trek. Going to Lake Holon is a 4-hour trek in a one-man trail.  Mostly, we passed by forested areas where beautiful flora species like pitcher plants and colorful butterflies are found.  In most areas the trail were steep and the soil loose. Thanks to our T'boli-made canes, big help to us.



     
The view deck was awesome as one could see the view of the spellbinding Lake Holon below. We stayed there for a while to enjoy the view and to breath fresh air before descending to the lake. Relaxing scenery of the lake, colorful tents and visitors kayaking are sights to behold at Lake Holon. 

Sunrise at Lake Holon


     Leaving Lake Holon the following day, we took another trail since we were going canyoneering at Bakngeb River Cave. The trail was wider but farther. One could choose to have a horse-back ride, but we choose to trek. At Sitio Bakngeb, we had our T'boli-inspired lunch and women tribe members rendered a few of their tribal dances to us. Well, the canyoneering was another amazing adventure. 


How to get to Lake Holon.


     
If you're from Davao City, you have to leave as early as 1:00AM and travel via General Santos City. You will arrive at T'boli Municipal Hall at 7:00AM, register at the Municipal Tourism Office and have breakfast. Then you can hire a "habal-habal" for a two-hour ride going to Sitio Kule, register again, have your orientation and hire a guide. Hire a porter if you want to. Then your trek starts and have your lunch on the way. It's better to join in package tours since meals are free, although there are stores at Lake Holon where you can buy food.






                                                     






Typical T'boli lunch       
Lake Holon is perfect for soul-searching and to commune with nature. Take a break, enjoy Lake Holon. It's only in the Philippines! ❤










           




    




     

Friday, August 5, 2016

Pangadilan Falls: Rockin' it Cool

          
         The moment I saw pictures of it in a friend's post, I immediately fell in love with it. Pangadilan Falls is located in the humble municipality of Columbio in Sultan Kudarat. It's not ordinary to see huge and towering rock formations in this country. Unlike the rock formations in Machu Picchu, Peru built by the Incas, this one is built by nature. 

             From the poblacion of Columbio, it was a 45-minute travel going to Pangadilan Falls. The trip, I think, was made longer by the rough and rugged terrain. To my mind, it would be less physically tiring riding on a motorcycle than anything with four wheels. We were on a bongo truck then. But upon seeing the breathtaking sight, the tough and physically exhausting trip was all worth it.


          I wandered around the place, leaped and climbed on the rocks and wondered how this beauty came to be. As if an unseen hands piled these rocks neatly and orderly. The waters are clear and clean. The rocks under the waters are pristine as they are still covered with mosses that make the rocks slippery when stepped on. So one should swim or take a bath with slippers on to avoid slipping.

How to get to Pangadilan Falls

           If you're from Davao City you can ride on a bus or van going to Tacurong City and stop at Datu Paglas, Maguindanao. It's a 4 1/2-hour trip on a bus and 3- hour trip on a van. In front of the municipal hall of Datu Paglas is a waiting shed and just beside it there are motorcycles bound for Columbio, Sultan Kudarat. It's a 45-minute ride going there. 

       But before your trip to the falls, it is advised to seek permission from the punong barangay, or at least let him know of your trip. Since the place is far, he can have someone accompany you going there.











          It may be a rough and tough travel to Pangadilan Falls, but at the end of the trip is a marvelous beauty to behold. Truly, nature is the art of God. 

            


Tuesday, June 21, 2016

Never MINE!!!

               

         I am against mining. 

       I was still in college when I first heard about a mining company to operate in Southern Mindanao, the Western Mining Corporation (WMC). It would develop the Tampakan Copper-Gold Mine Project. The project would traverse in one of the towns in Davao del Sur, my home province.

        I only learn about mining through my readings. Weighing the literature I've read I could conclude that mining is more destructive than beneficial, in whatever manner.
Image of an open-pit mine.

 I was given the chance to see a real mining site and to know how a mining operates when Sagittarius Mining, Incorporated (SMI) brought us to Carmen Copper Corporation in Toledo City, Cebu. Maybe, SMI hoped to convince me and the group that mining is okay and acceptable. What I saw did not please me. In fact, a Pandora's Box was opened before my every eyes.

The Tampakan Copper-Gold Mine Project

       The Tampakan Copper-Gold mine project is presently managed by SMI. It is considered to be the largest open-pit mine in the Philippines and Southeast Asia, and one of the largest in the world. But before SMI developed the project it was Western Mining Corporation which first held the same. The Philippine Government granted the Financial or Technical Assistance Agreement (FTAA) to WMC in 1995. The FTAA allows full foreign ownership and capital investment of mining projects, as provided in RA 7942 or The Philippine Mining Act of 1995. In 2001 FTAA was transferred to SMI. With the enactment of RA 7942, the Philippine government liberalized mining policies and opened both public and private lands, including protected areas, to foreign investments.


          The mine site covers an area of approximately 10,000 hectares, wherein the open-pit, tailings pond, fresh water dam and other support infrastructure will be situated. It straddles the towns of Tampakan in South Cotabato, Kiblawan in Davao del Sur and Columbio in Sultan Kudarat. The open-pit will lie in Tampakan, South Cotabato, where the area contains about 15 million metric tons of high grade copper and 17.6 million ounces of gold deposits. It would reach an extent of 500 hectares and a depth of 800 meters. The tailings pond will sit in Kiblawan, Davao del Sur. The tailings pond is where mine wastes or toxic sludge are stored and treated.

        SMI had already finished the exploration phase. It is now in the process of preparing for a full-blown operation targeting to start in 2017 or 2018. If the 17-year project operation will commence, the mine will yield an average of 375,000 tons per annum of copper and 360,000 ounces per annum of gold in concentrate. The whole operation projects a contribution at about $37 Billion to the Philippine economy, an average contribution of one per cent annually to the GDP.

              
IPs and Ancestral Domain

        About sixty (60) per cent of mining operations in the Philippines take place in ancestral domains. Ancestral domain consists not only the land where Indigenous Peoples live. It also includes cultural and religious practices among indigenous communities.
Open-pit mine at Carmen Copper Corporation in Toledo City, Cebu.

       The Philippine Mining Act of 1995 allowed the exploitation of our natural resources, including those found within ancestral domains and lands. The law provides that no ancestral land shall be opened for mining operations without the prior consent of the indigenous cultural community concerned. But the question is how genuine and truthful is the consent of the IPs obtained? On the other hand, the Indigenous Peoples Rights Act (IPRA) of 1997 provides that the State shall respect, recognize and protect the right of the IPs to preserve and protect their culture, traditions and institutions. What weighs more between the two laws is a pressing issue that calls for concern. Unfortunately, the IPs belong to one of the most marginalized and vulnerable sectors of society.

        The Tampakan Copper-Gold Mine Project will affect IPs and ancestral domain since the mine site is inhabited by about two million people with diverse ethnical backgrounds. The project will directly affect almost 6,000 members of the B'laan tribe whose source of livelihood is agriculture. For them, more than just a source of livelihood land is life.

        Agriculture contributes the main livelihood of the people, yet, untapped natural resources, such as copper, gold, nickel, chromite and marble are found in the area. Once  the operation starts, it will result to flagrant poverty and backward agriculture. Any resettlement activity could deprive them of their means of livelihood. 

        Apparently, mining does not guarantee local employment and upliftment of lives of the residents, especially of the IPs. Most locals are hired only during the construction stage. When the operation starts, SMI would certainly hire those who are highly-qualified for the mining business.

        The presence of mining or any activity could also cause the IPs' disintegration and displacement. This will only mean loss of their cultural identity and disruption of traditional system, which weaken their sense of unity that may lead them to become more vulnerable.

        SMI's palatable offer to the community, such as scholarship and livelihood programs, had led most residents especially the IPs to give their consent and support to the mining activities. They agreed as long as their ancestral domain will not be destroyed. There is the question on the truthfulness in the acquisition of the IPs consent since SMI failed to disclose the negative impacts of mining to them. Thus, the rule on Free, Informed and Prior Consent (FPIC) is violated.

        Moreover, in a discussion with SMI people they said that they will buy the lands owned in private and rent those lands covered as ancestral domains and return the same to the IPs when the mining activities are done. When asked how would they return the ancestral lands to the IPs when these are already deeply excavated and unbeneficial, they still have no concrete answer to this.


Environment

        The Philippines is an archipelago with fragile ecosystems. Out of the 10,000 hectare project site 3,750 hectares, more or less, are rainforest vegetation. Approximately 355 hectares are old growth forests or virgin forests, which under our laws forests of this kind shall not be disturbed. The mining area supports a high diversity of species - over 1,000 flora species and about 280 fauna species. Of this, at least 50 flora and fauna are listed as threatened species.
Tailings pond of Carmen Copper Corporation

        Open-pit mining will be SMI's means to excavate the massive copper and gold deposits in Tampakan. Open-pit mining is destructive as it entails excavation of thousands of hectares of agricultural lands and rainforests in order to extract mineral deposits. It also uses toxic heavy metals and chemicals to process mineral ores and would leave an acidic soil.

         Moreover, the geologic location of the project is dangerous as it is traversed by the Philippine Fault and the Cotabato Fault. The site is also about 12 kilometers from Mt. Matutum, which is a dormant volcano and which tip towers over the Tampakan minefield.

          Two rivers will be affected - the Taplan River where the mine site lies atop it and the Mal River where the site infrastructure will be located. These two rivers provide waters to lowland agricultural farms in South Cotabato and Davao del Sur. In case of an accident or failure of any of its facilities, poisonous substances will flood downstream since the project lies in an unstable geography. Contamination of water will also pose a risk to agriculture.

        During a Forum on Water Resource Management and Mine Rehabilitation conducted by SMI it was made clear that the treated mineral wastes from the tailings pond will be discharged at Mal River. SMI assured that the treated wastes pose no adverse effects to people's health and environment, but it seems hard to believe. Chemical wastes are dangerous and harmful, even if treated. It could have long-term effect like causing diseases to humans and destruction of the environment system of rivers and seas. 

         Open-pit mining also consumes voluminous amount of water. In the same forum SMI revealed that the mining operations will have an average demand of 908L/s and 93L/s of which is fresh water consumption. The 745L/s remains in its tailings storage facility or tailings pond. When the mining operations cease, the water management for the open-pit and tailings pond will be modified accordingly. How will it be modified is still a big question that SMI cannot give exact answers.

        As part of its biodiversity management plan, SMI will conduct revegetation and rehabilitation of the lost rainforest due to the mining operations. The excavated rainforests which are habitats of birds and other wildlife contain native plant species. The plants which will be used for revegetation and rehabilitation are non-native since there are still no native plants found to thrive in acidic soils.

        Like in Carmen Copper Corporation, only Acacia Auri were grown in the mining area because this kind of plant thrives in acidic soil. Acacia Auri is a plant not native in the Philippines and grows even in poor soil. Forests with non-native plants will not become good habitat for our birds and wildlife. The change in vegetation will affect the entire food chain of animals.  

         Lastly, however mining companies, including SMI, shout that they would practice responsible mining and whatever amount of money our government would get out of the mining business, the same could not compensate to the ill effects of mining. 
I don't even believe in the thing called "responsible mining". There is nothing responsible about destroying the environment and the displacement and marginalization of the IPs.



References:
Marina Wetzlmaier, Cultural Impacts of Mining in Indigenous people's Ancestral Domains in the Philippines
Rog Amon, Tampakan Mining Project: Prelude to a Disaster?
SMI's Tampakan Copper and Gold Project Presentation


         



Wednesday, June 1, 2016

MESMERIZING SOHOTON



          I've been hearing about Sohoton and its amazing cove in Surigao del Norte as a great place for travel and adventure. The last time I went to Surigao I was still in college then, but not in Sohoton. So when my officemates planned for a trip to Sohoton, I joined in. Sohoton is found in the Municipality of Socorro, Bucas Grande Island, Surigao del Norte.

         We left Digos City at 9:00 in  the evening and we reached Surigao del Norte at around 6:00 AM the next day. We immediately went to Hayang Gabon Port where motorized boats bound for Sohoton are waiting. We already chartered our boat weeks before our trip. This is the best thing to do since it is hard for walk-in passengers to hire motorized boats due to large number of travelers. From Hayang Gabon it took us about 40 minutes to reach the place where we register for our tour. Then the adventure begun.


   Crystal Cave
        

Chandelier
Brain-like stalagmite

          

Bolitas Cave        




Tiktikan Lake


Stingless jellyfish at Tiktikan Lake

Tara Club Resort





Sohoton Cove






The jump.




Hidden Island Resort



Marka-A Resort


For sure, nature lovers will love Sohoton. No amount of words could ever describe the marvelous beauty of the place. 






            INKED BY APO WHANG-OD       " When we put the thorn in our chest, we know,  we understand. But still we do it. Fo...